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(I really did not have the securing handles tightened down.) I didn't see anything wrong, but pulled back both awning simply to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement West Covina. I'm assuming the repair service will require changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to change those that were pulled out

We've obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant fixings, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is great. The back brace setting up is great, but the front one is cracked at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Even the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement West Covina).

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The RV is a 2007, but we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even obtain us via the summer season - without having to place in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a fast and efficient option. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from three sides of the roof. In order to remove the fourth one, I require to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof covering decking, I require to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off first before the last steps of this post (revealing the front and back sides of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really need to do this action until the awning was on the ground but I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Removing the installing bracket of the awning. As soon as the installing brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is generally simply like a regular item of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's just like getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is put under the rail) and afterwards simply pull it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just know it's coming! When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When both set screws were removed I can move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roof decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. The roofing outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition have to be raised. To lift that, the edge molding need to be removed.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scrape to a rigid 6 wide putty knife. This item chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. Then I switched from a scraper to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened up the other corner trim in the same way, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those edge trim pieces right down after all. We'll get to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front side. Exact same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting but adhesive at this point) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point began to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framework below. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that signs up with the items together. I do not understand exactly how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly realized the roofing system was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling yet adhesive at this point) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement West Covina. Now I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I began meticulously peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing started to pull up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I might see the steel framing under. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I don't understand how exactly they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roofing system ply are joined together at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

I rapidly realized the roofing system was shedding strength and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.