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Camper Service Center Orange County

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair And Service Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything wrong, but pulled back both awning just to be secure. A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been drawn away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually drawn away from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Service Center Orange County. I'm thinking the fixing will involve changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is fractured at the base and completely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Also the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Camper Service Center Orange County).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be entirely changed? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would such as guidance regarding how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - possibly also obtain us through the summertime - without having to place in an all new awning! We're in a really significant bind since we have actually a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly instead locate a fast and efficient option. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. However in order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to remove the recreational vehicle awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off first before the final actions of this post (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing system decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this action till the awning got on the ground but I noticed this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning. Once the mounting brackets are removed, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally just like a regular piece of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding except that near the bottom side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be removed. Right here's a take a look at the circular network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, after that you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may need to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply pull it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather promptly.

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were removed I might slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples holding it down. I tore them out as ideal I could. The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I may wind up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. The roof decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift need to be raised. To lift that, the edge molding have to be removed.

I can swing the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I changed from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the exact same way, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those edge trim pieces right down after all. We'll obtain to that later. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much stifling however adhesive at this factor) and afterwards I might pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I don't recognize how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roof was losing toughness and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so split it off simply before the very first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting however glue at this moment) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Service Center Orange County. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scuffed up a few of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to draw up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I can see the steel framework below. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not understand exactly how precisely they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off just prior to the very first joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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