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Camper Repair And Service Ontario

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Repair Ontario, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has pulled away from the wall surface and turned a little bit - Camper Repair And Service Ontario. I'm thinking the repair will involve replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We've got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out because it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is great, yet the front one is broken at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, to make sure that the leading support arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Even the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier gray steel - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to ensure we're not being taken in out of our desperation.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even obtain us via the summer - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a fast and effective service. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. Yet in order to remove the fourth one, I require to eliminate the recreational vehicle awning also.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise notice how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off initially prior to the final steps of this post (revealing the front and back edges of the roof covering decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really have to do this action till the awning was on the ground yet I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing bracket on the. Removing the mounting brace of the awning. As soon as the installing brackets are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily similar to a normal item of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding except that at the lower edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Below's an appearance at the round network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You might have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply glides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.

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When the 2 established screws were removed I might glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples holding it down. I tore them out as finest I could. The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

After that I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I might turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scrape to a rigid 6 wide putty blade. This piece chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened up the other corner trim in the same means, and curved it sidewards just sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish removing those edge trim items all the way down nevertheless. But we'll reach that later. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting however glue at this factor) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to bring up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I can see the steel framework beneath. Yet then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't understand how exactly they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roofing was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll end removing those corner trim items all the method down nevertheless. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this point) and afterwards I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Repair And Service Ontario. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the broken bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The whole point began to draw up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framework under. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I do not understand just how exactly they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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