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Irvine Camper Trailer Repair

Published Jun 01, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Replacement Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Irvine Camper Trailer Repair. I'm thinking the repair will entail changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair services, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we recognized the axle was in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is great. The back bracket setting up is fine, yet the front one is broken at the bottom and totally damaged through at the top, to make sure that the leading support arm no longer attaches to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio affordable? Even the real assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger grey steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just intending to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us via the summer season - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a quick and reliable remedy. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Renovation Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing system. Yet in order to remove the 4th one, I require to eliminate the motor home awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll also discover just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the last actions of this blog post (revealing the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Getting rid of the installing brace of the awning. When the placing braces are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is generally just like a routine item of aluminum roof covering edge trim molding other than that at the lower side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Right here's a check out the round channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's just like getting rid of the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply tug it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the right end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.

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As soon as the 2 established screws were eliminated I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. The roof decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition must be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding must be gotten rid of.

After that I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the exact same means, and curved it laterally simply enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive now) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scratched up a few of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to bring up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framework beneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I don't recognize just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off right before the very first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which means I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces all the method down. However we'll reach that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's just popping with the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Same bargain once more. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this moment) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Irvine Camper Trailer Repair. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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Camper Services Irvine, CACamper Roof Replacement Irvine, CA


I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scratched up some of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing began to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not know just how exactly they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roofing was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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