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Camper Trailer Repair Fullerton

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Repair Fullerton, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything amiss, however retracted both awning simply to be risk-free. The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Trailer Repair Fullerton. I'm assuming the repair work will entail replacing that entire length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We've obtained busted braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major fixings, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we understood the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out given that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The back bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is fractured near the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, to make sure that the top support arm no much longer affixes to the camper. We are in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey metal - it's the gray little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps also obtain us via the summer - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd instead locate a quick and reliable service. Any person? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roof outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll also observe just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off initially prior to the final steps of this article (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually need to do this step till the awning was on the ground however I observed this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely pull back on the bracket. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. When the installing brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a routine item of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Here's a look at the round network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was secured under it. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When the two established screws were removed I can slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples quieting. I pried them out as finest I could. The following point holding down the motor home fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might end up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. The roofing outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition need to be raised. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

After that I can swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can swing that item of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched from a scraper to a stiff 6 vast putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened the various other corner trim in the same method, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I might lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those edge trim pieces completely down besides. But we'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side. Exact same deal once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting however glue at this factor) and after that I can yank out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the pieces with each other. I don't understand just how exactly they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roof covering was losing toughness and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so split it off just before the initial joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down but adhesive at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Camper Trailer Repair Fullerton. Currently I can draw out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scraped up several of the busted bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to bring up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Now I can see the steel framework under. Then the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not understand how exactly they handled to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are signed up with with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roof covering was shedding strength and rigidity as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off simply before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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