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(I really did not have the locking handles tightened down.) I didn't see anything amiss, yet pulled back both awning just to be safe. A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Service Center West Covina. I'm presuming the repair will involve changing that entire size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repair services, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience prior to we understood the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is fine. The back brace setting up is great, yet the front one is split at the bottom and totally damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Even the real support arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Camper Service Center West Covina).

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even get us with the summer season - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a fast and efficient remedy. Any person? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Improvement Collection!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roofing system trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. However in order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to remove the motor home awning as well.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roofing outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise see how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off first prior to the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this action until the awning got on the ground but I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the. Getting rid of the mounting brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, after that you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You may need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. After that simply tug it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather rapidly.

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) HEADS UP! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground little by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning got on the ground I removed the little set screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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Once the 2 set screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roof decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so again I just tore up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. The roof decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift must be raised. To raise that, the edge molding should be removed.

I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 large putty knife. This piece cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened up the other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it laterally just sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish removing those corner trim pieces completely down after all. Yet we'll get to that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling however glue now) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the items with each other. I don't know how exactly they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof covering was losing toughness and rigidity as I drew up the leading layer, so broke it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The side of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Service Center West Covina. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started very carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scratched up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point started to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the pieces with each other. I do not understand just how exactly they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

I quickly understood the roofing was shedding stamina and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off just before the first joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.