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Rubber Roofing For Campers Irvine

Published Mar 13, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

While you're cleansing, scuff off any type of debris or old roof covering product, however beware while you do this as you can quickly elongate a tear, or perhaps punch a hole through the roof covering. You must after that dry the roofing as best as you can. Note: Rubber motor home roofing systems can be very slippery when damp.

After the roofing is tidy, you are mosting likely to want to inspect the seams for holes, cracks or peeling, so you can reseal anywhere essential. You'll want to make a factor of resealing all joints once a year whether or not they show indicators of wear.

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When it comes to choosing the most effective RV roofing sealer, you'll wish to think about whether you are fixing a tear, resealing a joint, or sealing the entire roofing. The sort of roof is likewise crucial to maintain in mind, as motor home roofing systems can be made from either EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and TPO (Thermal Polyolefin) and you require the item you make use of to be compatible with your roof kind.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer is a great choice for discussing old roofing system seals. It can be used for spot securing or to reseal every seam on the RV roofing system. Simply cleanse the area well and use with a caulk weapon. Right stuff will level itself out, so do not stress over that part.

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This keys and layers the roof to produce a charming, safety covering that'll last for many years. Finally, there is the Dicor TPO Roof Covering System. Similar to the EPDM system provided above, this covering product will cover your TPO roof and help it last an additional 10 years. Before EPDM and TPO, steel was the material of choice for recreational vehicle roofing systems.

The aforementioned EternaBond is still king when it comes to fixing tiny damages on a metal roofing system. Motor home metal roofings do require to be entirely resealed from time to time.

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Ensure to reseal whenever necessary and make a factor of resealing every one of the joints once every year or so. Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer functions well for this task. If your fiberglass roofing system needs to be coated, Dicor Fiberglass Roof Covering is an excellent choice. You'll require to get rid of the current roof covering.

Do this in little chunks the whole time the roofing, reducing holes in the rubber roof for any kind of feature that will return right into the roofing. Lastly, change your roof covering's followers, skylights, and air conditioning device. Seal each seam with the lap sealer we discussed previously. You'll additionally wish to use lap sealer to the sides of the roofing system.

My motor home roofing that needs to be changed! Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Collection!.?.!! So you desire a motor home yet can not afford one. If you're like me and have even more time than money, then perhaps your ideal option is to get an old RV and repair it up. If you occur to locate a truly excellent bargain, after that opportunities are it has water damages.

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I get it. I bought my Recreational vehicle over a year ago and really did not have the intestines to begin tackling this task until today. I bought this 1993 Jamboree for $5000.

I've never ever functioned on a Recreational vehicle prior to and I have to confess, I'm afraid. Ideally if you're taking into consideration doing this on your own, following along on my RV roof substitute project will certainly provide you the guts to dive in! The devices I used today.

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I purchased a 12 x 26 SuperMax Cover by ShelterLogic (over $450 on Amazon but I got mine from North Tool for around $340!) and jacked up the legs with timber expansions to make the cover high sufficient that I can base on the roof and stroll under it. That seemed to be my most affordable option.

I figured I prefer to have it semi-portable so I went with the cover, plus this allows me to readjust the height backwards and forwards when I need to. Certainly the most affordable option of all would be to simply throw a great tarp over the top of your motor home for rainy days and just work with bright days! Initially I increased the legs with 1 1/2 PVC pipeline that fit inside the legs and afterwards I connected a pipe clamp around the PVC pipe to hold up the cover legs.

I sawed 1 1/4 square legs from 24's to place inside the cover legs (once more holding the canopy up with pipeline clamps.) and reinforcing the 4 edges with an extra 24 screwed to it. This is still a little drooping. I most likely need to have handed over for some stiff steel pipeline from the begin.

Fractures in the EPDM roof at edge of camper. An old patch task on the RV rubber roof covering. Tons of caulk piled over old problem locations. As you can see, this roofing system has had a great deal of concerns throughout the years. Looking from the within the camper there have actually clearly been leakages in many locations of the roofing system.

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I got hold of an energy blade and started slicing. The first point I saw is that there were two layers. On the base is the initial EPDM rubber roof layer. I know it's EPDM rubber and not TPO rubber due to the black support. (TPO roof covering is white on both sides.) In addition to my EPDM roof covering is a slim recreational vehicle roofing finish that was used later on.

I just left the roof covering covering stuck to the EPDM roof and drew them up together. (You do not require to peel them up individually.) Starting to remove roof covering. Peeling off up section of the bottom layer of rubber. This reveals that the original recreational vehicle roofing was EPDM as a result of the black backing.

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I cut lines with an utility knife around components. All rubber roof removed from camper. This step went quite swiftly. There was a sticky under the lower layer of rubber that was still pretty well embeded many places, yet with a good bit of force it peeled up cleanly.

Currently I can see all the damaged plywood roof outdoor decking below. HEADS UP! You might not desire to peel off the rubber! I chose to peel off the rubber prior to removing components so I can see what I was handling. But I have to advise you, the old adhesive was still sticky, and a pain to stroll on.

If you assume you'll be conserving the roof covering decking plywood (not replacing it), after that you may save on your own some cleanup problem by eliminating the fixtures first and after that peeling off up the rubber! Much more water damaged areas on RV roofing system outdoor decking.

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I chose the easiest one first, an air vent cap from a kitchen sink pipes vent pipe. Starting to scratch caulk and sealer. I made use of a rigid scrape with a chisel-like blade and simply started spying and chipping and scratching and hacking. There is no other way around this, you just need to begin excavating until you subject the screw heads.

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Loosening the screws in air vent cap. The screws on this vent cap were hex-head steel screws so I utilized a tiny socket motorist to eliminate them.

I discovered an old wasp nest inside the air vent cover. This is a sight I'll most likely have actually to get utilized to, discovering the remains of animal habitation in every nook and cranny. I spend a terrible great deal of my time producing good wild animals habitat in my backyard so I don't get upset when an animal picks to set up home in my recreational vehicle.

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Thankfully no one was home in this old nest so I simply tossed it. You must attempt not to damage these pieces (like air vent covers and caps) as you're scuffing off the old caulk and sealer simply in case you need to utilize them again.

My roofing system vent additionally had a vent cover over it. Beginning on the roofing system vent. Hardware subjected on roof air vent cap, the initial nut came off clean.

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The fasteners on this Recreational vehicle roof covering air vent cover were nuts on tiny screws. The second one just began rotating, suggesting the screw was not fixed in place but turning along with the nut. A peek at the equipment holding down the roof covering air vent cover.

I didn't have any type of excellent way to hold the screw in position so instead I decided to saw with the bolts with a reciprocating saw. Sawing with bolts on roof covering air vent cover. I used a cordless reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade however it was complicated to obtain the blade flat enough to get to the screws so close to the roofing system deck.

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Bending the blade a little bit to get to close to the roof covering deck. Cover removed from roofing vent.

Most were so old and rusted that they sheared off when I unscrewed after that with a lot of force. Loosening the brackets that held the vent cover in position. After that I scraped extra caulk and roof sealer off the flange of the roof covering vent itself. I quickly uncovered there disappeared screws or equipment holding it down so I surrendered on the scuffing and went inside the RV After scratching the caulk and sealant from flange of roof covering air vent, say goodbye to screws! Unscrewing the inside cover plate of roof covering air vent follower in RV shower room.

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I selected a drill bit close to the size of the shaft of the screws that I had already drawn out and started boring. Selecting a drill bit for drilling out a screw head.

Shatterproof glass recommended. So I pierced out the heads, one popped off and the various other I was obtaining irritated with and offered it a tug prior to it was pierced with. Rather than standing out off the screw head, the plastic just melted away around the hot screw head. Whoops. Hope I do not need to recycle this cover.

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All corner brackets got rid of, all set to draw out. Once the braces were out I went back up top to tear out the the roof covering air vent. I scraped up all the staying cruds and rubber roofing. Raising off the old roof covering air vent. There are two cables going to the roofing system air vent (a black warm cable and a white neutral wire) that you'll require to clip to eliminate the old air vent.

These are the wires attaching the roofing system venting follower. Roof covering air vent removed and cleansed up. After clipping the cable and removing the vent, I cleaned up any type of remaining goop and got my very first great appearance at the roof covering framework.

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Some RV roof coverings are framed with timber, others have steel framework. I scuffed off some corrosion and made a large mess inside the washroom.

My last goal of the day was to obtain the refrigerator air vent cover off. I discovered Motor home sealer blobs at 4 points on the cover so thought there need to be screws under them.

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Subjecting the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Removing old RV roof covering covering in addition to refrigerator air vent cap I additionally observed that there was a layer of recreational vehicle roof finishing over the air vent cap. These coatings are painted on with a brush so clearly whoever did this finish just blobbed know top of whatever.

Raising off the cover of the refrigerator roof covering vent. Cutting away extra rubber and scuffing off Motor home roof sealer and old caulk. Scratching lap sealer and caulk from screw heads.

Tearing off the refrigerator roof covering vent after all screws are gotten rid of. Nearly every screw was in good adequate condition to get rid of with a socket driver, however a pair were also rusty and needed to be turned out with vice hold pliers.

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OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I peeled off the remaining rubber roof from under the flange and then removed the old putty under. I'll clean it far better if and when I determine to reuse it. Looks like it remains in good form so I probably will. Removing the old putty from the flange of the fridge roof covering vent.

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